A Pirate’s Paradise. The world’s wickedest city. A thriving center of trade, war …and crime. Port Royal Jamaica was all of these until an earthquake swept it into the sea in 1692. Present day Port Royal (Port Royale) is a small village, tucked into Kingston Harbor, on the southeastern coast of Jamaica. It may look unassuming, but it was once the largest city in the Caribbean. And traces of its fascinating history are everywhere. From a sunken pirate city to a movie location for Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean films, if you want a fun day out, don’t miss Port Royal.
A Brief History of Port Royal Jamaica
Image is CC BY 4.0, by Edward Long, via Wikimedia Commons.
The Taino Indians were the first to settle in the Port Royal area. They lived there until 1494, when Spanish invaders arrived, led by Christopher Columbus. About a decade later, Spanish settlers came. English invaders displaced the Spanish in 1655, during the English invasion of Jamaica. The English built a fort there, and in a few short years, houses, shops, and warehouses sprang up. The city became a lively trading center. By the end of the seventeenth century, the English had built four more forts, as well. The English renamed the town Port Royal, and until the earthquake of 1692, which destroyed the city (for the first time), Port Royal served as the capital of Jamaica.
A Pirate Port and Haven for Privateers
Image is in the Public Domain, by the Open Clipart Library, via Wikimedia Commons.
During the seventeenth and eighteenth century, the Caribbean was a trade battleground between England and Spain. Pirates were both a worry and a defense. In 1657, hoping to protect Port Royal from the Spanish, Governor Edward D’Oley invited the Brethren of the Coast to make Port Royal their home. The Brethren were an association of pirate captains who worked the Caribbean. They were highly organized and had a code of conduct and a hierarchy. In addition, many had letters of marque, which licensed them to attack Spanish ships. The governor issued the Brethren additional letters of marque, making them privateers with license to attack Spanish trade and coastal towns. As a result, Spain was never able to retake the island.
Port Royal flourished — and so did the privateers. Raiding and plundering made Port Royal one of the wealthiest communities in the English occupied territories. And local businesses grew rich servicing the pirates’ needs. By the 1660s, Port Royal had become a pirate’s paradise. Prostitution and other crimes flourished. And the government, which depended on the pirates for defense, was content to let it.
By the time the 1692 earthquake, and subsequent tsunami sank much of the city into the sea, Port Royal was the second largest city in the New World, second only to Boston.
A Sunken Pirate City
Over the next century and a half, hurricanes and earthquakes continued to devastate the area. And Port Royal never returned to its previous glory. However, Port Royal is now home to a wealth of archaeological treasure.
Port Royal was built on a sand spit, which liquefied during the 1692 earthquake. As a result, much of the city sank into the sea. Low oxygen levels in the water meant that much of what was lost was preserved in excellent condition. Even things that would usually rot away, like clothing, wood, and textiles. Archaeologists, therefore, were able to reconstruct what life was like in that port city, down to considerable detail.
Archaeologists often refer to Port Royal as “the city that sank.” And many consider it to be the most important underwater archaeological site in the western hemisphere. In addition to 16th and 17th-century cultural remnants, archaeologists have found artifacts from indigenous peoples like the Taino, that predate the Spanish invasion. Indeed, many hope that the sunken city will one day be made a UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
How to Experience Port Royal Today
In 2000, the Port Royal Development Company finished a redevelopment of the city. Tourists can now enjoy several attractions, as well as well preserved historical sites.
Walking Tour
You can start your exploration with Visit Jamaica’s Port Royal Walking Tour. This tour hits a number of historical and modern attractions from different eras in Port Royal’s history. From the 17th century Old Gaol to modern hot spots like Gloria’s restaurant. It’s a great way to get the lay of the land and plan your adventure.
Fort Charles
Image is CC BY-SA 2.0, by emailer, via Flickr.
The English built five forts in Port Royal. Fort Charles was the only one to survive the 1692 earthquake. The flagstaff, from which Jamaica’s latitude and longitude are measured, still exists. In addition, you can see some of the original canons pointing out from restored battlements. Interestingly, at one time, the sea surrounded Fort Charles on three sides. Over the centuries, though, silt buildup has landlocked it. In the center of the courtyard stands a small maritime museum. In addition, you can see Nelson’s quarterdeck, where Admiral Lord Nelson kept watch for enemy ships.
The Old Gaol House
Image is CC0, by Deanna, via Pixabay.
This sturdy structure is one of the only fully restored seventeenth century buildings in Port Royal. It survived the earthquake, the subsequent tsunami, and a host of other natural disasters, including fourteen hurricanes and two fires. What’s more, it has been fully restored. Definitely worth a look.
The Giddy House
Image is CC SA 4.0, by raychristofer, via Wikimedia Commons.
Built in 1888, near Fort Charles, the Giddy House was originally an artillery house, where the English stored weapons and gunpowder. It partially sank during the earthquake in 1907, and its name comes from the “giddy” feeling visitors sometimes get while standing inside.
Museums of History and Ethnography at the Institute of Jamaica
This isn’t in Port Royal itself but in nearby Kingston. In addition to artifacts from Port Royal’s colorful history, you can see exhibitions of Jamaican history and culture. There are also artifacts rescued from the sunken city. You can have a look at some of their current exhibitions here.
Where to Eat
Gloria’s
5 Queen Street, Kingston, +1 876-967-8066
If you like seafood, you have to eat at Gloria’s. But you may have to wait. Locals come from miles around to eat delicacies like grilled lobster and honey jerk shrimp. You can also sample Jamaican specialties like bammies (cassava cakes). If you’re going on a Friday or Saturday night, or at lunchtime, make sure to get there early, because it fills up fast.
The Y Knot
Norman Manley Hwy, Port Royal, St. Catherine, +1 (876) 967-8448
The Y Knot is a full-service bar that serves excellent food on the weekends. You can enjoy chicken, fish, pork, shrimp, and ribs, cooked to order. In addition, this is the meeting place for Lime Cay tours.
The Blue Ridge Cottages and Restaurant
Where to Stay
Below, you will find the best places to stay in this famous Pirate port.
The Grand Port Royal Hotel
The Grand Port Royal Hotel is the place for luxury accommodation in Port Royal. From a fitness center, pool, and spa, to nightly shows, and a waterfront dining restaurant, this is the place to stay while visiting Port Royal. For more information, visit their website online.
The Blue Ridge Cottages and Restaurant
Other Accommodations
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay that’s a little off the beaten path, Kingston and surrounding areas are full of small hotels, guest houses, and Air BnB rentals that may be just the ticket.
Conclusions
When a lot of people think about Jamaica, they think about reggae, jerk chicken, and soft, sandy beaches. But Jamaica has a long and fascinating history, and traces of it are all around. Port Royal is a unique place, where you can view layers upon layers of different cultures and lost history. Dig a bit deeper. You may be surprised. And delighted.
Featured Image is CC BY-SA 2.0, by emailer, via flickr